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Simplified making of double bourdon melody pipes page 2.
By BOB ESSEX
Glue and clamp the fronts and centerboard.
The two front face boards for each pipe are cut about 60 mm. shorter than the overall length of the pipe. A short bevel is cut on the inside surface of each front board where the pipe mouths are to be formed.
One of the pipe sides is laid flat and the front boards and foot piece are glued in position making sure the front pieces are at perfect right angles to the side. When the glue is set, the centerboard assembly is glued in position. The top point of each block should be exactly 30 mm. from the base end of the pipe. This leaves a gap of 30 mm. above each block, which will later be partially covered by the upper lip. Leave the pipe long enough for the glue to set.
Glue second side on top and clamp.
Glue second side on top and clamp before the second side goes on top, paint the internal surfaces of the pipe with PVA glue thinned with a little water. Also paint the glue on the inner surface of the second side piece.
The two front face boards for each pipe are cut about 60 mm. shorter than the overall length of the pipe. A short bevel is cut on the inside surface of each front board where the pipe mouths are to be formed.
One of the pipe sides is laid flat and the front boards and foot piece are glued in position making sure the front pieces are at perfect right angles to the side. When the glue is set, the centerboard assembly is glued in position. The top point of each block should be exactly 30 mm. from the base end of the pipe. This leaves a gap of 30 mm. above each block, which will later be partially covered by the upper lip. Leave the pipe long enough for the glue to set.
Glue second side on top and clamp.
Glue second side on top and clamp before the second side goes on top, paint the internal surfaces of the pipe with PVA glue thinned with a little water. Also paint the glue on the inner surface of the second side piece.
Double blocks – Jig for making them up.
The centerboards are held standing on their edges by small wooden guide-blocks, hot-glued onto a melamine-faced board.
The pipe blocks are then glued to the ends of the centerboards with PVA woodworking glue. The centerboard assemblies can afterwards be easily removed from the board without sticking.
The centerboards are held standing on their edges by small wooden guide-
Before this glue is dry, apply normal strength PVA glue to the edges of the fronts, centerboard assembly and foot piece, then press the second side into place. Then clamp the whole pipe body onto a flat board, wiping away any surplus glue from the exterior wood with a damp cloth. Leave each pipe for the glue to set and dry thoroughly.
Trim all the exterior surfaces.
Trim all the exterior surfaces of the pipe by sanding any raised edges. The tips of the blocks and the foot piece should protrude slightly from each of the pipe-fronts. These should then be carefully ground level with the fronts using a disc sanding machine or a flat sandpaper board. The finished pipe body can then be given a first coat of varnish.
Trim all the exterior surfaces.
Trim all the exterior surfaces of the pipe by sanding any raised edges. The tips of the blocks and the foot piece should protrude slightly from each of the pipe-